Scholarly Pursuits and Coming Home, in Kampong Gelam

One of my New Year’s resolutions – besides improving my tennis swing – was to find something meaningful to sink my teeth into in Singapore.

An acquaintance introduced me to Friends of the Museums (FOM). This volunteer non-profit society provides guiding and financial support to nine museums and cultural institutions, and training to guides to lead walks in heritage neighbourhoods. So I applied to the first course offered, a seven-week training programme to become a walk docent for the Kampong Gelam heritage walks.

Together with fourteen other women from Singapore and beyond, I have been steeped in Singapore history and specifically, the Malay-Arab Muslim district of Kampong Gelam.

Kampong Gelam (“kahm-pahng guh-lahm”) is Malay for “Village of the Gelam.” It is likely named for the Gelam tree, which used to grow wild across Singapore and is still widely cultivated today. When soaked in water, its bark becomes spongy and was used to caulk boat seams for water proofing. Its leaves produce cajeput oil, considered medicinal and is the active ingredient in the all purpose, achy muscle soothing Tiger Balm.

Before land reclamation extended the shoreline, Kampong Gelam was Singapore’s early port town. Seafaring traders from across the Malay archipelago – spanning Indonesia, Malaysia, and southern Thailand – settled here, brought together by their common faith of Islam. The Bugis from southern Sulawesi were ship builders and fierce fighters; the Minangkabau from the central Sumatra highlands were scholars and weavers of songket, a textile with fine gold thread; the Javanese were merchants, spice traders, metal workers and stone masons who also established printing houses; the Baweanese from the tiny island of Bawean north of Surabaya were horse trainers, basket weavers, and general labourers; the Banjarese from southern Kalimantan were diamond craftsmen and traders; and the Arabs, many of Yemeni descent who arrived by way of Indonesia, established themselves as some of Singapore’s most prominent land, business and plantation owners and philanthropists, with streets, buildings and schools still bearing their names: Alsagoff, Aljunied, and Alkaff.

When Sir Stamford Raffles arrived in 1819 – laying the groundwork for what would become modern Singapore – the British developed the Raffles Town Plan that carved Singapore into districts to ease trade and economic development and create community harmony. Ethnic groups were allotted distinct areas, creating communities for the Chinese, Indians, Europeans, and Malays; many are intact today.

Because of its Muslim identity and strategic location along shipping routes, Kampong Gelam became a hub for hajj pilgrims from across the archipelago to transit on their way to Mecca, as they sought to fulfill the Fifth Pillar of Islam. Remnants from that time are still visible, with old lodging houses and trip brokers’ offices turned into restaurants and modern travel agencies.

Today many locals simply refer to Kampong Gelam as Arab Street and know it for its hipster bar scene, artsy cafes, funky street art, Arab perfumeries, Indian textile shops, Halal eateries, and the stunning and iconic Sultan Mosque looming from nearly every vantage point.

I suppose I fell in love with the place the first time I heard the call to prayer. Sultan Mosque is the only mosque in Singapore with outward facing loud speakers. Like Gregorian chant, it has a lulling, contemplative effect on me. Memories stir from my youth, and I can still picture Ajar and Nahir, a Minangkabau couple who worked for our family in Sumatra, rolling out their small rugs in the direction of Mecca and praying, five times a day.

I fell more deeply in love during training when I learned the extent of Indonesian influence. Hearing familiar Bahasa Indonesian words, delving into the history and people of my old stomping grounds in central Sumatra and Java, and sampling nasi padang cuisine (important field research!), I felt as if I were coming home.

As a heritage walk docent, I will aim to tell the story of this neighbourhood and the blending of the old with the new. After Hari Raya Puasa, which marks the end of the holy month of Ramadan, my training partner and I will debut our walk with a seasoned mentor guide. When the training wheels come off in June, I’ll be open for bookings!

Enjoy the pics of my fellow trainees and the environs.

Friday Call to Prayer, Sultan Mosque

FOM Kampong Gelam Heritage Walk Docent Training Programme 2021

Old & New, Charming Kampong Gelam

If you like what you read, subscribe HERE.